Florestan and Eusebius at The Floridita

“My favorite is the one on the left. The one with the maracas.”

“She plays the flute too.”

“I know, but the maracas are why she’s my favorite.”

“I prefer the one next to her. The guitarist.”

“You would. How about another round?”

“Ok, but that’ll do it for me. We’ve already had four.”

“Four? This music really is intoxicating. I feel pretty spry for only two daiquiris.”

“That’s because we’ve had four apiece.”

“Oh.”

“Hey, I want to write about this trip, and I want to start with the music.

“Good luck. Writing about music is hard. Who was it that said ‘writing about music is like dancing about architecture?’”

“I know. But I have to write about it. It’s just too amazing. So, here’s my idea: you ever heard of Richard Wagner?”

“Who?”

“You know. The guy with the big operas.”

“Ha ha. I like that. I wonder if ‘opera’ is the German word for ‘maraca?’ Sorry. Anyway, what about him?”

“Well, a while ago he came up with this idea called Gesamtkunstwerk.”

“What?”

“Gesamt … the name doesn’t matter. The point is that he had this idea of making a supreme form of art that encompassed all other arts.”

“What?”

“Like his operas. You know. Think about it. They have everything. They have music of course, but they also have theater, they have dance, the have visual art in the costumes, the sets. There’s literature in the story …”

“Why are you telling me this? I was having such a good time.”

“Well, look at them. Look at those girls. There it is. Wagner in Cuba. I mean, there’s music. Incredible music. It’s rhythmic and makes you happy, you can’t help being happy. And they’re singing. Who knows what they’re saying, but it sounds like poetry to me. And look at them. They’re beautiful. They look beautiful. They’re wearing like these orange silk dresses that shimmer magnificently in the light. I mean, there’s definitely an artistic component to their look. And finally – and this is the most amazing part – they’re dancing. And while they’re dancing they’re actually making music. Do you see that? Their dancing creates music. Look at the maraca girl for example. Seriously. The movement she’s making with the maracas is a dance, but it’s also percussion for the music. The drummer girl is doing the same thing. What an amazing thing. I’m speechless. What do you think?”

“Here’s what I think. You want to write about Cuban music? You write about those women and the way they make you feel. Write about their svelte … you know. Write about how their whole side of the bar oozes with – as a good friend of mine said once – a ’sexual vitality that eats you alive.’ That’s stuff worth reading. But please, whatever you do, leave Wagner out of it.”